Can you imagine a village with a single house in a remote land? Such a village actually exists in the hill state of Himachal Pradesh. Kakti village in Kaza Panchayat of Lahaul Spiti district is surrounded by towering, barren mountains. Just below the foothills of these mountains lie lush vegetable fields and a few small trees acting as a fence for the fields.
At the foot of the mountains is a 100-year-old mud house with tiny doors. The residents work in the fields and care for their livestock. There’s no sign of any human habitation around.
The Spiti Valley headquarters is located in Kaza at a distance of 10 km from Kakti. The lone family here has been living here on their ancestral land for many years. The residents comprise two brothers and the family of the elder one. The younger brother, Kalzang Takpa is a lama and currently serves at a Buddhist monastery in Kaza. He became a Buddhist monk following the family tradition. His elder brother, Tsering Namgyal lives at home with his wife Ringzin Uden. Tsering’s eldest son, Sonam Chopel is also a lama and currently studies at the Chauntra Buddhist Temple on the border of Kangra and Mandi districts. Their second child, Nawang Gyalson is a special child and the third, Nawang Kunga runs a taxi.
This family represents the fifth generation of their lineage. The family is supported by farming on 15 bighas of land.
Lahaul-Spiti is cut off from the rest of the world during the winters forcing most of the people to migrate to Kullu-Manali and Mandi. But Chhering’s family refuses to migrate, no matter the circumstances.
Chhering disclosed, “We love the Spiti Valley and have never considered migrating. We enjoy the rural environment and don’t like the crowds of the cities. During the winters, we sometimes go to Rewalsar in Mandi district or Nainital in Uttarakhand, but after a while we come back to our village. Our generations have lived here. If someone falls ill, the government provides assistance with helicopters or other means, but to date, no such situation has arisen that could threaten anyone’s life. So leaving is out of the question.”
He said that the farming will begin again in April and the family will once again cultivate 15 bighas of land.
“We were born here and are well acquainted with the conditions here,” he said.
Made of mud and stone, Chhering’s traditional house is a classic example of Himalayan architecture. It stays naturally cool in the summers while trapping heat inside during the winter. Even when the outside temperature drops to minus 20 degrees Celsius, it provides a safe and relatively warm shelter for the family.
Interestingly, this one-house village is now connected to Digital India. Bharat Sanchar Nigam Limited (BSNL) has installed a 4G tower here. Chhering explained that while it used to take weeks to get news earlier, he is now connected to the rest of the world through his mobile phone. Chhering said, “This has provided us with a lot of convenience. We stay in touch with our families through mobile phones.”
Electricity also reached this village in 2011 along with road connectivity.
Lahaul-Spiti is a tribal district in Himachal Pradesh and is known as the Cold Desert because of heavy snowfall in winters when temperatures drop to minus 20 to minus 40 degrees Celsius. Drinking water sources also freeze. The district is renowned for its natural beauty and its Buddhist temples remain a major tourist attraction. Tourists visit the region in winters as well.
Chhering’s son Nawang pointed out, “When we went to school, we would travel to Kaza via mountain paths and return home on foot. Now, we have road access to our home and can easily reach Kaza by car. Things have changed significantly. In case of an emergency, we can immediately contact the administration or others in Kaza through the mobile phone.”
While Kaza is 10 km by road, the distance gets halved if one goes through the mountain trail. Kaza is Spiti’s main market offering various facilities like banking, schools and hospitals.
Winter is at its peak presently and Chhering’s family has stored medicine, rations and essential supplies as heavy snowfall can sometimes make it difficult to even venture outside. But this time, the snowfall has been minimal.
He disclosed,”During the winter season, we stock up on rations for six months. We also stock up on medicines, wood, and fodder for our animals.”
Tsering’s wife Ringjin Uden said, “About 20 years ago, the entire valley would be covered in snow during the winters, significantly impacting life here. Due to changes in the weather, snowfall is decreasing. This time too, the snowfall has been minimal. Due to the extreme cold in winters, natural water sources freeze. We melt snow. My husband works as a labourer in the Jal Shakti Department and spends the rest of the time farming with his family.”
Currently, the fields are lying vacant and the sowing of peas and potatoes will begin only after April. Lahaul’s potatoes and peas are exported to vegetable markets as far as Delhi. The potatoes from this place are in demand because of their excellent quality.
“Kakti village is registered in the revenue records. It is the first village in the country to have only one household. The administration has provided every facility to the family here,” disclosed Shikha Simatia, Additional Deputy Commissioner at Kaza.
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